Borneo: Wild at Heart

Virgin rainforest, endemic wildlife, world-class dive spots, and authentic cultural experiences. That’s what’s on offer when cruising the wild beauty of Borneo. And yet, the lush, tropical island is vastly under-visited by yachts. In fact, you’re unlikely to meet many people who have had the privilege of cruising the pristine waters. So, what are you waiting for?

Not a country, but an island, Borneo sits under the joint ownership of Indonesia, Malaysia and the sultanate of Brunei. Straddling the equator, Borneo holds the title of third biggest island in the world (after Greenland and New Guinea) and is the biggest island in Asia with a landmass of nearly 750,000 square kilometers. So, when it comes to a yacht charter itinerary, where should you start?

Local experts are unanimous that the Malaysian state of Sabah, which forms the northern part of Borneo, is the country’s best cruising destination. Known as “the land below the wind,” thanks to its position out of the typhoon belt, Sabah is a clement and inviting spot that lies directly in the middle of Southeast Asia. Its capital, Kota Kinabalu, is a convenient base with Sutera Harbour Marina, excellent provisioning, and short flights from Singapore, Hong Kong and Kuala Lumpur.

Sabah’s must-see attraction is Mount Kinabalu, which Captain Scott Walker of Asia Pacific Superyachts describes as “the most climber-friendly high mountain in the world.” It’s the highest peak south of the Himalayas and is best experienced either with an overnight hike to the summit or a leisurely drive up to the National Park.

There’s no doubting that wild Borneo is a nature destination at heart. The northern tip of the island boasts castaway beaches, deep anchorages, and incredible diving. The lesser-known Layang-Layang atoll, located in naval territory and requiring special permission for access, is a pure diving destination, rich in hard coral and sea life, including hammerhead sharks.

“After picking one of the naval moorings in the lagoon, you can easily access Layang-Layang’s spectacular untouched dive spots by tender,” says Captain Raymond Heer, who has cruised extensively around Borneo.

Another top diving spot is Sipadan, which, together with Mabul and Kapulai, forms part of the “golden triangle” of Borneo dive spots. “You can’t anchor overnight in Sipadan, so you’d typically base yourself in Mabul, which is a beautiful spot in its own right, and then travel for one hour (8 nautical miles) to get to Sipadan,” says Heer. “Sipadan is all turtles, barracudas and jacks, there’s a lot of life, while Mabul is more critter diving, with blue ribbon eels, frogfish and the like – between the two it’s a great combination. “

When leaving Sipadan, be sure to explore the nearby Danum Valley rainforest – the Amazon is a mere infant in comparison to the 140-millionyear-old Danum, home to the tallest tropical trees in the world. “It’s primary, pristine rainforest that has never been logged,” says Heer.

“When leaving Sipadan, be sure to explore the nearby the 140-million-year-old Danum Valley rainforest – home to the tallest tropical trees in the world.”

Access to lodges in the heart of the Danum Valley is via helicopter or a two-hour ride inland in a four-wheel-drive vehicle. “The stars of the show are the gibbons and the endemic red leaf monkeys, along with the tremendous bird life,” says Heer. “Just the fact that you’re in one of the world’s oldest primary rainforests is special in itself.”

Of course, no visit to Borneo is complete without a closeup encounter with the island’s flora and fauna – it boasts over 6,000 endemic plants – not to mention, an unrivaled roster of wildlife. Borneo is home to 222 mammals (including 44 endemic species), 420 birds (including 37 endemic species), 100 amphibians and nearly 400 fish. In other words, there is an abundance of nature that you won’t see anywhere else in the world.

Bucket list sights include the distinctive long-nosed proboscis monkey, orangutans and Borneo pygmy elephants. Travel ashore to stay in lodges and enjoy a river safari up the Kinabatangan River – by dedicating a few proper days immersed in the Bako National Park, you are near certain to encounter many of these species.

“The birdlife is a real highlight, with indigenous and non-indigenous birds that are simply beautiful,” says Heer. Fans of the orangutan will also want to visit one of Malaysia’s three orangutan rehab centers to learn more about the work being done to protect this magnificent, but endangered, animal.

The cultural highs and human encounters are equally as memorable. Home to more than 18 million people and more than 200 ethnic groups, Borneo is a veritable smorgasbord of art, religion, and relics of an ancient civilization. A visit to local communities provides a window into traditional ways of life.

“Once under the colonial rule of the British North Borneo Company, Sabah is now a harmonious community of ethnic tribes living alongside Chinese, Malays and Indians,” says Walker. “Those interested in the country’s culture will enjoy visiting the homes of different tribes, namely the Kadazan-Dusun, Rungus, Lundayeh, Bajau and Murut. Here you can see the making of different types of rice wine, clothes made from the jackfruit bark, blowpipe demonstrations, bamboo fire-starting demonstrations, and an in-depth look at the mystical symbolism behind them.”

“Once under the colonial rule of the British North Borneo Company, Sabah is now a harmonious community of ethnic tribes living alongside Chinese, Malays and Indians.”

Be sure to also come ashore and sample some of Borneo’s flavorful local cuisine. From aromatic laksa noodle dishes to curry puffs (think samosa), and spicy beef rendang to the sweet treat that is Sarawak layer cake, every mouthful is a celebration of ingredients.

In a location such as Borneo, the main challenge is narrowing down what to see and where to go. But whether a jam-packed two-week itinerary or an extended month-long stay, Borneo is sure to win your heart.

Cruising notes: Yachts over 78 feet are required to use an officially approved agent to clear in and out of Borneo

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